Restore Headlights

Post tags: | restore_headlights |

clear coat spray

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  • USC Spraymax® 2k Glamour High Gloss Aerosol Clear Part # Usc-3680061
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  • 2K Glamour High Gloss Clear Coat, Aerosol, 11.8-oz, Pt# 3680061
  • Dupli-Color BCL0125 Clear Exact-Match Automotive Top Coat - 8 oz. Aerosol

4DIYers youtube 4DIYers - DIY: Headlight Restoration using Clear Coat

instructables

How to Restore Your Headlights by gmatta

autogeekonline

Headlight sealant: spar urethane vs. opti coat 2.0 autogeekonline forum thread

Headlight Restoration Kit DIY how to Restore Yellowed, Dull, Cloudy, Oxidized Polycarbonate, Plexiglass, PVC in 60 seconds by hand (no machine 100%) autogeekonline forum thread

This technique takes 1 minute to restore most headlights or to be more precise 90% of cars & motorcycle plastics can be polished like this, the exception is very, very neglected headlamps, windshields, helmet visors, cabriolet plastic windows, PVC etc. where same technique & chemicals are needed only with the help of machine (drill) & pads/polishing balls. To make it even more complicated the next level is use of wet sanding with 800 & 1500 (2000, 2500 if you want to shorten polishing time by machine) grit sandpaper & to get confused completely you’ll like to finish with 2K clear coat spray…but I repeat, 90% of mentioned above plastics can be restored in 1 minute by hand.

This is what I have achieved using this technique & your results will be the same if not better, 2 minutes is always better than 1 & 3,4,5 is even better but 1 minute is the benchmark, the deviation varies (work + time) = but results will be almost the same, because what first polishing step does is about the maximum result.

To restore your exterior (interior ex. speedometer in cars & motorbikes) clear plastics you’ll need:

  • Polishing compound (Intensive Abrasive Index Polish)
  • Wax or Sealant/Glaze, Finish Polish
  • Microfiber(s)
  • Right or Left hand

As you see I don’t mention the brands as this is totally unimportant, the best 1st step product will be something that sounds like: polish, polishing compound, swirl remover, scratch remover also something with the name like metal polish is excellent 1st step to polish your headlights.

The 2nd step is needed (but not required) only to better clean the polish residue on the clear plastics, to give more clarity, shine & protection against further deterioration in the future as wax or sealant protects better than polishing compound for example.

When you see that your headlights are not so clear again as when you first polished it last time, just take microfiber & wax it, it will look wonderful again & polishing will not be required.

So polish + microfiber & you start to clean your car/motorbike lenses using moderate to high pressure, then without removing the polish you just applied, squeeze some wax on the microfiber (same microfiber or new one doesn’t matter) & start to clean lenses (any clear exterior/interior plastics in boats, cars, air planes & motorbikes) to a perfect clarity.

Now if you think I am joking, I am not. Here are 1 minute results & if you will use this simple technique & will be happy or unhappy about the results, just post your pictures here, I’ll be happy to see your compliments & even more complaints.

Mike58: Are you saying the polish you use is heavy duty like m105?

Exactly Meguiars M105, this is 1st step then wax, sealant or finish.

But polishing compound that comes in metal or plastic tins & looks like a paste is the best from my experience, it cleans the lenses faster. M105 is not so liquid & is more like a paste so must be OK.

This method is preferred to wet sanding & even 2K clear coat spray as a finish, because plastics that deteriorate after years, their hardness (polycarbonate hardness is Rockwell M70 & as a funny comparison Fluoropolymer which is used in many PTFE & Teflon polishes & waxes & is considered a very good weather UVA/UVB protection is M30 which means good for a liquid substance) & UVA/UVB resistance is broken not only from the outside where they are clear coated at the factory but all their structure is weakened from the inside, so after much effort the yellowing will come back & then you can’t just polish & wax it in 1 minute, you’ll need again to wet sand it & make all the process from the beginning which takes few hours, I think it’s better just to wax it after they become yellow again, 1 minute is not so much to do it even once a month.

In my opinion clear coat is only 30% harder than polycarbonate (on this scale would be like M90 maximum) & when applying such coatings on the lenses some of it are UVA treated with a lamp but again, most modern waxes & sealants also offer this kind of weather resistance, weaker than clear coat but when plastic is broken from the inside, so wet sanding, hours of work & you only protect in the end to outer surface with clear coat, but because plastic is broken from the inside, sun & weather will just pass through clear coat without harming it but will harm the plastic below it & this will harm clear coat back side that sits on the broken plastic & then anyway clear coat will break.

Also keep in mind that clear coat if not of the highest quality will make your headlights look more dark, not so clear & even grey.

So all the pros & cons leave us with 1 question in the end: Hours of hard work or 1 minute?

Here everybody decides for him/her self.

Rob4092xx: Can someone please interpret for me so I understand this one minute process? Thanks!

Don’t ask, practice & experience will lead you to success.

You can’t win a Jackpot without filling a lottery ticket first.

For my patented PolyCarboPlexiPlast System™ you will have to buy Polishing Compound, Wax, Microfiber.

When you approach not looking as new headlight, you take a polishing compound (also products that’s written on the bottle scratch remover, swirl remover & even metal polish work as good on any plastic headlights) on a microfiber & start to polish a headlight by hand with medium to hard pressure in circular or left-right motion, up & down it doesn’t matter the movements, then next without wiping out the polishing compound left on the headlight, you apply to the same or new microfiber wax or sealant & start to apply it the same as 1st stem. Finally you wipe it all out with the dry microfiber side or new microfiber.

Hocus Pocus headlights will look as new again in most cases (in 90% of headlights), then only wax it once a month or so to keep a perfect look always.

If you still don’t understand, then my system is not for you.

You are 100% right, the best nano polymer/carnauba paint sealants offer between 6-12 months of paint shine & protection, that’s why 34-55$ per headlights restoration & no problem, people are happy, for the same work in authorized car garages (motorcycles don’t do it, they simply sell new bike headlights, windshields etc.) people pay them 100-150$ & garages use only cheapest out of date products while I use the best.

When I started doing it I used headlight restoration kits, it’s all BS & expensive, my cost is 1 cent per headlight, 1 minute work plus 12 months warranty if in case they don’t pass the technical inspection next work is free no questions asked or your money back, in 2Y nobody called me back complaining (every customer gets air freshener(S) to feel good when leaving after 1 minute, my business card so they know where to find me I am not hiding), on the opposite people (I don’t even know their names) forward their friends.

In the summer about 90 cars/bikes per month, in the winter when darkness comes earlier up to 140 so I have seen a lot of headlights, even coated, believe me coated & cured hold about the same but they look ugly, grey, matte…nothing will make headlights quality as new from the manufacturer, all plastic breaks through inside/out because when headlights are not clear, bulb heat grows & this burns the plastic from the inside because exit light from the reflector doesn’t go through clear, headlights are no more 100% hermetic, that’s it.

I don’t go so deep into peoples lives BS them with wet sanding, 2K clear coating, curing in the sun & they don’t even ask or want it (I charge 400$ for such work) White Pearl Lexus LS 460 Nano Polish&Wax + Headlights Restoration by Sharkpolitur , Israelis are easy go society, they pass the test & 2Y prove my system works very good for them so is for me. This is what counts here.

autogeek.net All you need can be found here: Your Car Wax SuperStore - We Are Car Care, Car Wax, Car Polish, Auto Detailing Supplies, Car Buffers & Car Accessories Store

windshield

Rain-X 800002243 Glass Treatment- 7 oz.

Another micro detailing strategy I offer in the winter to the people that I don’t know them is windshield rain repellent coating, charge the same as for headlights restoration, front window 34$ all 55$, the only difference is that it takes not 1 minute but 5 minutes.

I buy such Waterslide Rain Repellent Coating (note that on the bottle there is grammar mistake, they write Repellant not Repellent & instead Visibility=Visability, I think this is some Chicago slang as the products are Made in USA).

1 bottle cost me 5$ & will do minimum 10 max. 30 car windows (depends how greedy you are, for me about 10 front windows as product just goes & goes even 1 drop makes a lot of application, I apply 2 coats), so expenses are really none.

I know this is very confusing such coatings but I have tried 4 different brands from Germany, Belgium, UK, USA all are the same, all hold for months neither wipers or car washes don’t damage the slide of the rain drops. All work so brand doesn’t matter, I speak for myself only.

This is some internet pics from some brands regarding anti rain coating, my works just the same, look for yourself.

Above pics I took from the internet from top brand names, you all know some & use some, as you see water drops don’t connect under the same angle as not coated glass, also when big amount of water in such tests runs from the top down, you see how coated glass breaks the water flow into small rivers while not coated is just one big water spot. Well, basically that’s it. Below are real life pics.

If you look for extra income, my headlight restoration 1 minute system & rain repellent coating can be offered as stand alone service to all the strangers out there. Good luck.

Clean glass very good first, apply the glass coating with very soft applicator (something that doesn’t suck the liquid but spreads it), wait 1 minute & as it evaporates wipe it away (you can also wait 1 minute & apply 2nd coat, then wipe away).

I offer all winter warranty (winter in Israel is few months of rains here & there), in 2Y nobody called back said it doesn’t work or asked to reapply it. It works.

the treatment Waterslide Windshield Rain Repellant Coating Great Beading Action http://www.thetreatment.com/product/waterslide/

Chicago, IL 60651 (773) 626-8888 made in the usa

Method?

1st step product like: polish, polishing compound, swirl remover, scratch remover

also name like metal polish is excellent 1st step

Exactly Meguiars M105, this is 1st step then wax, sealant or finish.

But polishing compound that comes in metal or plastic tins & looks like a paste is the best from my experience, it cleans the lenses faster. M105 is not so liquid & is more like a paste so must be OK.

I came myself to now the best for me system: Polishing Compound & Wax or Sealant.

take a polishing compound (also products that’s written on the bottle scratch remover, swirl remover & even metal polish work as good on any plastic headlights)

on a microfiber &

start to polish a headlight by hand with medium to hard pressure in circular or left-right motion, up & down it doesn’t matter the movements,

then next without wiping out the polishing compound left on the headlight

you apply to the same or new microfiber wax or sealant & start to apply it the same as 1st stem.

Finally you wipe it all out with the dry microfiber side or new microfiber.

Look for words

  • polishing compound, scratch, swirl remover, metal polish 1st step
  • wax, sealant for the 2nd.

http://www.thetreatment.com/product/scratch-away/

http://www.thetreatment.com/product/polishing-compound/

SONAX Perfect Finish

Meguiar’s M9 Mirror Glaze Swirl Remover 2.0 - 16 oz.

Meguiar’s M4 Mirror Glaze Heavy-Cut Cleaner - 16 oz.

Meguiar’s M105 Mirror Glaze Ultra-Cut Compound - 8 oz.

Meguiar’s G17216 Ultimate Compound - 15.2 oz.

Meguiar’s G18016 Clear Coat Safe Rubbing Compound - 16 oz.

Meguiar’s G17616 SwirlX Swirl Remover - 15.2 oz.

Meguiar’s X2020 Supreme Shine Microfiber Towels (Pack of 3)

Meguiar’s G17216 Ultimate Compound - 15.2 oz.

Meguiar’s G19216 Ultimate Polish - 16 oz.

Sonax (224141) Profiline Perfect Finish - 8.45 fl. oz.

Meguiar’s G7014J Gold Class Carnauba Plus Paste Wax - 11 oz.

Mothers California Gold Original Formula Paste

Mothers 05550 California Gold Pure Brazilian Carnauba Wax Paste (Ultimate Wax System, Step 3) - 12 oz.

Meguiar

Question: What’s the difference between the heavy/medium cut cleaners and the 105/205 compounds?

Answer: Compounds are the heaviest duty, generally used for heavy oxidation and scratches on metal, NOT plastic. The polishes are medium cut products, basically for light oxidation. and then the waxes are of course the lightest cut, for everyday cleaning and waxing. In each product line, there are variations from product to product.