Surfer Steve

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Stephen Pirsch

surfersteve.com

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Craig: weight 175# height 5’8” board 7’8”

(175.0 / 25.0) * 0.5 = 3.5 cu. ft. (99 liters)

usblanks.com/catalog US Blanks 8’2”AX

research

youtube surferstevedotcom - How To Build Your First Surfboard

http://surfersteve.com/design.htm

If new to surfing, ride mostly small, or slow waves, or just enjoy early wave entry gliding, use the following guidelines: 1/2” thickness for each 25 lb. of body wt. and 2’ longer than height. To be more exact use: .50 cubic feet of foam per 25 lb. of body weight (the US Blanks, and Clark Foam catalog has the cubic foot numbers for each blank for free online at www.foamez.com ). For example; a 150lb. surfer divided by 25 equals 6. 6 times .50 = 3 cubic feet of foam. Add at least 5% (1/4”) for shaping losses which brings the example to 3.15 cubic feet. Simply look at the displacement number (cubic feet of foam) in the catalog for the blank with a close number. If you pick a blank within 10% of your number you will have a good wave catcher. Remember to add 10 lbs to your weight if you wear a wetsuit often when surfing. These guidelines are maximums. More is not likely better in this case. A board designed using the math above gives a huge advantage in crowded conditions, by allowing early wave entry.

Craig: weight 175# height 5’8” board 7’8”

(175.0 / 25.0) * 0.5 = 3.5

surfersteve.com/smwavedesign Small Wave Design

Author, in 2012, prefers Fig. 12 and Fig. 13.

US blanks catalog

        US Blanks Florida
        2775 Business Center Blvd, Melbourne, FL, 32940, United States
        Phone: 321 253-3626
        Fax: 321 259-2664
        Email: florida@usblanks.com
        

US Blanks 6’10”A width 24 thickness 3 1/2 disp. 2.52 cu ft

US Blanks 7’3”A width 24 thickness 3 5/8 disp. 2.74 cu ft

US Blanks 7’4”SP width 24 3/16 thickness 3 3/8 disp. 2.723 cu ft

US Blanks 7’7”A width 22 7/8 thickness 3 7/16 disp. 2.63 cu ft

US Blanks 7’10”SP width 24 3/8 thickness 3 3/8 disp. 2.892 cu ft

US Blanks 8’2”AX width 25 thickness 4 7/16 disp. 3.99 cu ft

US Blanks 9’3”AX width 25 1/2 thickness 4 11/16 disp. 4.75 cu ft

fiberglasssupply.com/product $137 - 8’2”AX Red w/ 2x 1/8” Basswood Stringers 1-1/8” Ap

usblanks.com/catalog US Blanks 8’2”AX

foamez.com/pdfs US Blanks

foamez.com/pdfs Marko blanks

Foamez shipping service center

XPO Logistics service center lookup

        Colorado Springs
        945 Conrad Street
        Colorado Springs, CO 80915 US
        Customer Service: 	(719) 597-5262
        Toll-free: 	(800) 854-0806
        Fax: 	(719) 597-5350
        

correspondence

2016-09-22

Thu Sep 22 04:54:01 MDT 2016

        To: steve@surfersteve.com 
        Subject: Researching first board build
        
        Thank you for your information on surf board building.  I live in Pueblo Colorado and stand up paddle a 10'6 board on lakes.  I would like a small wave board(s) for river standing waves and ocean use as I travel.
        
        Based on reading your site my target is
        
        My body info: weight 175# height 5'8" 
        
        Therefore
        board 7'8"
        (175.0 / 25.0) * 0.5 = 3.5 cu. ft. (99 liters)
        
        The commercial river board I favor is the Boardworks Badfish MVP-S listed below, price $1400.
        
        Boardworks Badfish MVP-S
        http://boardworkssurf.com/s/mvp-s-76/
        
        7'6" x 35" x 5 3/8" 	203L
        
        I don't know of a commercial small wave ocean board.  The closest blank I have found is
        
        US Blanks 8'2"AX
        http://usblanks.com/catalog/fun-boards/8-2-ax/
        
        bottom length 8' 2 1/2
        max width 25"
        max. thickness 4" 7/16
        displacement 3.99 cuft. 113L
        
        I have received advice and then ordered supplies from fiberglasssupply.com to make some modifications to my 10'6 SUP board.  I plan to talk to them about purchasing the US Blanks 8'2"AX
        
        I see you offer to correspond with builders using your techniques and recommend swaylocks as a resource after the first build.
        
        Can you think of any commercial boards or blanks for me to consider other than the US Blanks 8'2"AX?
        
        Thanks again for the information and inspiration.
        
        Craig Anderson
        

response from stephen

Hi Craig,

Very well written email, with lots of helpful information. A rarity. What many builders who make unusual designs have found, is they need to use block foam. Generally they buy EPS, and cut their blank from a large square block - usually with a hotwire cutter. Of coarse, you can buy an oversize SUP blank and cut it down.

The displacement formula given in the book is good mostly for surfboards - for SUP’s you need more volume. Yes, you can stand up paddle a board with the displacement you mention, but generally those low volume boards are specialized (for surfing competition etc.). Yes, many river boards are low volume also, but you mention having a 10’6” SUP - you will find the transition a problem if you choose low displacement. I have a SUP that is made for surfing (I do not use a paddle with it). It is around 130 liters, and for our small waves, it is good, but I am considering even more volume, for those marginal days.

If you had to choose between the Badfish design, and the Boardworks, go with the Badfish - it will paddle, catch waves, and balance much easier than the Boardworks. If you were shaping the Badfish from block foam you could modify it (possibly make it slightly narrower and thinner).

As you seem to already know, river boards tend to be very short. I recommend looking at http://achooj.wixsite.com/tufriverboards/contact

Jesse Marohn is a good guy who specializes in river boards - I am sure he will help you also. He is very innovative.

Craig…sorry I am not simply saying, “buy this blank.” You are opening a can of worms, but you are a smart guy. If you are determined, I am sure you can build a good, functional board. If you are pretty sure you will only build one board, consider buying something pre - made - Badfish looks good.

response from stephen

09/22/2016 04:10 PM

Sorry Craig - I mixed up the Boardworks with the USblanks. Anyway…I am a big advocate of the short, thick, wide SUP boards made for surfing. It seems these are a better choice even if used with no paddle, for the average surfer - in fact, most of the people I surf with now are SUPers (a friend makes SUP’s here and he gave me one his).

Reply

Fri Sep 23 09:26:13 MDT 2016

        To: steve@surfersteve.com 
        Subject: Re: Researching first board build
        
        > Anyway...I am a big advocate of the short, thick, wide SUP boards made
        > for surfing.  It seems these are a better choice even if used with no
        > paddle, for the average surfer - in fact, most of the people I surf with
        > now are SUPers (a friend makes SUP's here and he gave me one his).
        
        > I have a SUP that is made for surfing (I do not use a paddle with it).
        > It is around 130 liters, and for our small waves, it is good, but I am
        > considering even more volume, for those marginal days.
        
        Very good.  I'll research SUP/surf boards.  I'm afraid the price and an interest in DIY of your small wave design will make me consider a DIY build.
        
        I've found the BIC  C-TEC Wave Pro 8'2" x 29" for $1700.
        
        > What many builders who make unusual designs have found, is they need
        > to use block foam.  Generally they buy EPS, and cut their blank from
        > a large square block - usually with a hotwire cutter.   Of coarse,
        > you can buy an oversize SUP blank and cut it down.
        
        OK. I'll ask about this below.
        
        > The displacement formula given in the book is good mostly for surfboards -
        > for SUP's you need more volume.  Yes, you can stand up paddle a board
        
        OK.
        
        > Craig...sorry I am not simply saying, "buy this blank."  You are opening
        > a can of worms, but you are a smart guy.  If you are determined, I am
        > sure you can build a good, functional board.  If you are pretty sure
        > you will only build one board, consider buying something pre - made -
        > Badfish looks good.
        
        OK.
        
        I am interested in DIY boards and your small wave designs.  As a proposed first board I'm thinking 7'6 x 27" x 4" using your small wave design.
        
        I understand you are not in a position to recommend foam block sources.  I am finding 25psi EPS suppliers and contacting them for pricing.  I have not seen any XPS available in custom small blocks.
        
        Another option you and others have mentioned is 25psi XPS insulation sheets, Owens Corning Foamular 250 or Dow STYROFOAM Brand Square Edge.
        
        I could use a band saw to cut the length and width.
        
        Do you have advice on laminating XPS sheets to get the thickness I want and lengths over 8 feet?  For instance bonding 2 2" sheets for a 4" maximum thickness.  My local Home Depot has Foamular 250 4x8 2" for $33 and I assume I can find other thicknesses if I look.
        

Pirsch - 09/23/2016 10:13 PM

Hi Craig,

I show glueing XPS sheets together in the full length video (link in the book, and on youtube) - How To Build Your First Surfboard.

The XPS sold at Home Depot is usually 1lb/cu.ft., so you need to double the cloth amounts, and put a goretex vent in.

Also; 4” is not enough to get all your rocker, unless you bend the foam (not recommended on your first build). You will need another 2” sheet about 30” long glued to the nose area - this is for the nose rocker.

I used to discourage builders from using 1lb foam, mostly because there is a huge amount of misinformation about it on the internet. My last 3 boards have been 1lb. EPS with carbon fiber (strong and light). The method used to made these is outlined in the Research chapter towards the end of the chapter.

Craig…please do not use the information on youtube and the web to build a board from Home Depot foam - numerous people have written me with problems caused by doing this (delaminations etc.) This is especially true for you, as you will be stand up paddling, and this requires more reinforcement on the deck. Although you will be saving money on the foam, you will not save any money compared to 2lb block foam, due to the extra cost of cloth and resin - despite what you might read or view.

Coot response - Sat Sep 24 05:52:59 MDT 2016

        Stephen,
        
        Thanks for this email.  I will be studying your book, video and emails as I plan out a build.
        
        One point.
        
        > The XPS sold at Home Depot is usually 1lb/cu.ft., so you need to double
        > the cloth amounts, and put a goretex vent in.
        
        The product I was considering is.
        
        Owens Corning FOAMULAR® 250 extruded polystyrene insulation
        http://foamular.com/foam/products/foamular-250.aspx
        
        From the foamular 250 Product Data Sheet at
        
        http://www.foamular.com/assets/0/144/172/174/11b5f50a-0f80-4f08-bebe-71f4b6a9fdf7.pdf
        Quote ============================================
        Energy-Saving, Moisture Resistant XPS Insulation
        
        ASTM C578 Type IV, 25 psi minimum
        
        Description
        
        Owens Corning ™ FOAMULAR
        
        250 Extruded Polystyrene (XPS) Rigid Foam Insulation is a closed cell,
        moisture-resistant rigid foam board well suited to meet the needs for
        a wide variety of building applications.
        Quote ============================================
        
        >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
        > Stephen Pirsch email - 09/23/2016 10:13 PM
        >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
        
        > Hi Craig,
        > 
        > I show glueing XPS sheets together in the full length video (link in
        > the book, and on youtube) - How To Build Your First Surfboard.
        > 
        > The XPS sold at Home Depot is usually 1lb/cu.ft., so you need to double
        > the cloth amounts, and put a goretex vent in.
        > 
        > Also;  4" is not enough to get all your rocker, unless you bend the foam
        > (not recommended on your first build).  You will need another 2" sheet
        > about 30" long glued to the nose area - this is for the nose rocker.
        > 
        > I used to discourage builders from using 1lb foam, mostly because
        > there is a huge amount of misinformation about it on the internet.
        > My last 3 boards have been 1lb. EPS with carbon fiber (strong and light).
        > The method used to made these is outlined in the Research chapter towards
        > the end of the chapter.
        > 
        > Craig...please do not use the information on youtube and the web to
        > build a board from Home Depot foam - numerous people have written me with
        > problems caused by doing this (delaminations etc.)  This is especially
        > true for you, as you will be stand up paddling, and this requires more
        > reinforcement on the deck.  Although you will  be saving money on the
        > foam, you will not save any money compared to 2lb block foam, due to
        > the extra cost of cloth and resin - despite what you might read or view.
        

Stephen Pirsch - Sat Sep 24 19:00:00 MDT 2016

Stephen,

I’m planning to start the build during a quiet time over the colder months. There is lots of study and research to do before then.

I’ve started drafting top and side profiles based on your small wave design 12.

http://surfersteve.com/images/small-wave-designs-12.jpg

I’m tweaking design 12 for these dimensions: 7’6 - 30” - 5”1/4

When they’re ready I’ll send you the profiles I come up with and some thoughts on construction.

One of my buddies here in Pueblo says he would like to build a similar board, It would be great to have a local partner on this. He has been watching the river surfers on the Arkansas River Whitewater play park downtown and wants to join in.

Sincerely, Craig Anderson

Stephen Pirsch swpirsch@gmail.com

25psi - that will allow “normal” cloth amounts. Since you will be doing a SUP, use the equivalent of 3 - 6oz, layers of E cloth, with an EVA pad (all on the deck patch area), otherwise you will get heel dents - the rest can be the equivalent of a single 6oz layer.

It is great how you researched the psi numbers - good job Craig!

Stephen Pirsch - Sun Sep 25 19:35:00 MDT 2016

Okey dokey Craig. Let me know if you need any help.

Incidentally, the rocker note recommends the bottom rocker image for Figure 12. For a river board consider the top rocker image, or at least put 1/2” of rocker from the nose side of the fin base to the tail tip. River boards need to fit in to relatively tight, curvy spaces.